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Newsletter & Market Report.
October - November 2008
Our bi-annual Far East buying trips have had to become two week events rather than the one week trips they always used to be. Now some of you may be suspicious that it’s because the staff are only working half as hard when they get there, but no, it’s definitely been a gradual doubling of the stock demands over the last 4 or 5 years.
That’s been pretty reassuring but now of course the current market conditions are making most in the trade a little wary. With the falling pound against the dollar, gemstones and diamonds which are all bought in dollars are generally getting more expensive. That said, we’re finding sales holding up very well, in fact it seems to be the better-end stones that our customers are finding to be the strong sellers. For this reason we paid particular attention to securing more of these stones whilst away buying to keep up with demand.
This autumn’s Far East visit was undertaken by Donna and Mark and although both are veterans of overseas buying trips, it was always going to be interesting to see if they could spend a fortnight together without murdering one another.
Their trip took in both Hong Kong and Thailand, focusing solely on coloured stones, the standard jobbing requirements as well as the top end, one off pieces.
The mood amongst dealers was generally subdued with a reduction in the number of overseas buyers visiting and a reduction in the spend of those that did. Buyers are generally taking only what they know they need and little in the way of speculative purchases. Mark and Donna, optimists at heart and buoyed by very successful sales of high end stones following the March buying trip were keen to track down more “specials”. They were warmly welcomed by the hard pressed dealers and their palms greased with lots of pizza, seemingly the staple diet of the Far East gem trade (don‘t worry we‘ve cleaned the stones).
The visit soon revealed an increased number of dealers promoting untreated stones, particularly sapphire and ruby, undoubtedly a result of buyer resistance to the high volume of diffusion treated corundum on the market and the high volume of lead-glass filled ruby that was evident at almost every turn.
Regular readers of our newsletter will be aware that we highlighted the problems associated with lead glass filled ruby material back in April. As we said this material is not durable, with heat and weak acids either melting or dissolving the glass filling out of the stone to expose the underlying, usually sub gem quality material.
Donna and Mark bought a few pieces to photograph and experiment with to illustrate the problem and we’ve attached a before and after pic of just one stone. We hope to put a few more pics & details on the website. Laughably, this material was available ‘certificated’ as “enhanced ruby” with prices ranging from about £9ct to £15pc with sizes up to about 20ct! It’s given Mark the cunning plan to certificate some of the gravel on his driveway…. Someone’s bound to buy it.

(left) A seemingly presentable stone, although several large sub surface bubbles should set alarm bells ringing. (right) A quick swim in weak acid and a rather ugly glass filled ruby is soon revealed as the lead glass frosts and starts to dissolve.
The lessons being - avoid glass filled rubies……………and don’t swim in acid.
There was as usual an abundance of Tanzanite on display but few large pieces in the AAAA grade. We did manage to find a few stunning cushions, emerald cuts and a fantastic AAAA 8ct+ chequerboard short pear shape – again we hope to have a few pic’s on the website but give us a few days please!
Careful attention had to be given to avoiding tanzanite with cobalt coatings which have started to appear on the market in recent months. Clues to this treatment include small stones with unusually strong colour for their mass, stones exhibiting paler colour along facet edges and junctions and stones with an iridescent, almost oily appearance in incident light.
Plenty of large, good quality fresh water pearls are on the market, being a nice round shape with a very high quality nacre. We have nice pairs of 7mm to 10mm at very reasonable prices as well as a limited number of drop pearls.
There were nice examples of Brazilian lavender tourmaline and rubellite, we bought some nice large trillions finding the beautiful colours too hard to resist. High quality Tsavorite was thin on the ground with much of the material on offer really just too dark and looking more like dark green tourmaline. We did finally find what we wanted and have some fantastic cushions, trillions and pear shapes as well as the more usual rounds and ovals in the most vivid green.
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Diamond Report
October - November 2008
The diamond buying trip followed on two weeks after the return from the Thailand, with Mark and Jon volunteering to go, happy to squeeze in a bit of diamond buying between their curry buying.
The quite dramatic drop in the value of the Pound against the Dollar over recents months is having a marked effect on prices but other factors are also influencing the supply and price of diamonds worldwide.
Ninety percent of the diamonds sold worldwide are cut in the Indian city of Surat in Gujarat State. Like our own exchange rate woes, an unfavourable rupee / dollar exchange rate is compounding problems for Indian cutters, pushing up their costs for rough material. Also a reduction in availability of the rough, concerns of an impending world recession, and an expected reduction in buyers have all combined to persuade some major manufacturers in the post Diwali period to remain closed for up to 6 weeks, holding onto stocks in the hope more profitable economic conditions will return.
Also, African producers such as Botswana, Congo and Tanzania, which account for 45 percent of diamond production, in a move to end India’s domination over the diamond trade and to kick start a domestic cutting industry are set to impose export duties of 5 to 7 percent on rough, again posting upward pressure on prices.
To mitigate some of these pressures it was necessary for Mark & Jon to buy larger parcels of stones to enable more leverage when it came to bargaining down the price.
The immensely popular 1ct Diamond Packs which we had sold out of have now been replenished with TLB material in sizes 1mm to 2.75 @ £215 ct, white Si packs 1mm – 2.4mm @ £295ct and very special F+/VS+ material 1mm – 3mm @ £450ct. Exact or “hot” sizes eg 1.5 / 2 / 2.5 / 3mm etc are attracting premium prices as demand is very high with most going to the watch trade for bezels, dials and bracelets. Whilst we have plenty of these exact sizes in stock, anyone able to take stones just a 10th of a mm either side can expect a 10-15 % price reduction per carat.
We’ve been fortunate to find an old Indian cutter who will cut old cuts for us….. makes sense I suppose . He’s so old we reckon he never re-trained for cutting the modern brilliant when it was introduced in the 1940’s and Victorian or “Mitchel” cuts as they are known in India are what he’s always done. Anyway he does them well and we have reasonable stocks in sizes 1.25mm to 4.6mm - ideally suited for all those repair jobs. We sell them faster than he cuts them so if you need them get them while you can!
We have nice certificated brills from 0.50ct upwards in qualities G/Si to D/Vs all at good prices. These are moving fast so give us a call if you have or think you’ll have a requirement.
Between the bouts of frenetic activity when very large parcels of goods had to be sorted one stone at a time, there were periods waiting for new parcels to arrive and absolutely nothing to do. The two fellas took the opportunity to intellectualise on various important topics troubling the world today. Discussions (arguments) included it seems, such worthy topics as …… which of them who had the straightest fingers, who had the fattest fingers, who had the most fingers (?), who had the best mum, who had the best girlfriend, whether the midday meal should be “dinner” or “lunch” (Mark sure he had clinched it with the “they never had lunch ladies at school“ argument) , whether maps are boring, who had the best tweezers…… Their applications to join Mensa have been put on hold.
When the working day was done they bickered some more…usually about where to eat… Mark being older and more stubborn ended up getting his way and they ate at his favourite restaurant more often than not…
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