Newsletter & Market Report.
June 2010
Thailand Trips - Coloured Stones
The last few months have seen two Thai buying trips for coloured stones, with the ladies visiting the mining/cutting operations of Chantaburi and the boys supposedly broadening our supply base (you can probably see we’re engineering a Thai Lady-boy gag here).
So whilst Alison and Faye wrestled with the Chantaburi mud, Jon and Mark went on a cultural tour of downtown Bangkok.
Tsavorite - The top material with its rich colour and high brilliance is now much harder to obtain and prices are correspondingly higher. We did track down fine quality material, and we’re able to supply quite large & medium sized calibrated stones, free size pieces as well as diamond cut round calibrated sizes ranging from 1.5 to 5mm. These make a stunning alternative to emerald or accompaniment to diamond.
Ruby - Material in the market place needs careful checking due to the prevalence of glass filled material. To complicate matters, a new treatment seen mostly in stones from Mozambique has been detected that’s a modification of the lead glass treatment. The new technique involves in-filling and healing of fissures to improve clarity. Durability testing shows them to be more stable than glass filled material but it will be a little while before we can assess the problems they throw up once on the jewellers bench in repair work.
Good quality stones, whatever the variety, seem to be getting a little harder to source year on year. The problems caused by glass filled material in the market seem to have increased demand for quality ruby, particularly certificated stones. We purchased several top quality rubies in sizes from 1 to 3ct including a couple of very nice 1ct cushions at £790ct and a stunning 3ct Swiss cert’ed oval at £5700ct.
We were very pleased to find a stunning parcel of extremely fine Madagascan sapphire. The colour is spectacular, a beautiful rich, royal blue “Ceylon” which initially made us think they may be ‘too good to be true’. We had several stones from our selection tested by the Thai Gem Lab and all were ok - no beryllium enhancement, but it’s a limited supply and will be gone very quickly. Sizes range from 4mm to 6mm in rounds with ovals up to 3ct and prices from £290 to £950pct. This material is amongst the best we’ve seen since the Pailin material that was coming out of Cambodia over a decade ago. If you have a specific requirement or just fancy hoarding a piece whilst it’s available give us a call.
Amongst the sapphire specials we also found an exceptional, certificated, pear shaped sapphire weighing 3.03ct @ £950ct.
We found the lower grade mid blue sapphire traditionally mined in Australia, then Madagascar has now been largely usurped by Chinese material. These stones are characterised by a slightly green hue. The black material generally used in lower end jewellery is also now largely coming from China.
Emerald - Supply was relatively untroubled with nice Colombian and Brazilian stones readily available. Matching stones up is always problematic but we did sort pairs including a couple of beautiful Colombian pear shaped drops totalling 3.67ct at only £850ct. We have all calibrated sizes in round, oval and emerald cut up to around 3ct in various grades with larger free sized stones available.
Spessartite Garnet - This material is certainly a stone to keep an eye on in the coming months. It had been a collector’s stone for many years until a significant find in Namibia in the early 90’s brought it to wider attention. The early Namibian deposits were soon exhausted before new ones were discovered in Nigeria. Although found in various localities around the world, the finest material - often referred to as Mandarin Spessartite is now coming mostly from Nigeria and Mozambique. The best material has a clean, fiery orange-red colour; internally clean with a high lustre. We saw plenty of this material available from the Thai cutters with prices for 7x5, 8x6 material around £95ct with large, fine pieces commanding several hundred pounds pct.
It was typical that the week the Thai trips started the UK was amongst 26 governments warning people to avoid Bangkok due to the escalating political unrest. As it was there was no trouble other than a small grenade explosion just over the road from the hotel which interrupted Jon and Mark’s romantic meal together. The only damage apart from blown out windows was Mark dropping his Murgh Hyderabadi into his lap and Jon inhaling his Gosht Tandoori.
It is uncertain what effect the worsening Thai political situation will have on the gem trade in Bangkok. The commercial centre of the city has been a focus for demonstrations and our suppliers say visits from foreign buyers have all but dried up.
So whilst Mark and Jon were “working” Alison and Faye took on the fascinating task of visiting the mining and cutting operations in Chantaburi and the many friends we’ve made there and over the years.

The Chantaburi area was best known for its mining of ruby and sapphire as well as its cutting and heat treating operations. Now ruby and blue sapphire production has largely switched to Kanchanaburi with Chantaburi mostly producing yellow and green sapphire.
Following stones from mine to market enables Alison & Faye to guarantee they’re conflict free and ensure that only accepted treatments where appropriate have taken place.
Cutting just one stone from the massive parcels of rough (such as the one below) committed the cutters to buying the whole parcel from the owner.

By day 2 competition was high between Alison and Faye to find the best Sapphire ...but worth it in the end.
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